Salvador.

Bahian food.

It's a well known fact that Cariocas can't really handle their spice-- so I was incredibly excited to try all the Bahian food in Salvador. A disclaimer: to those who love hot food, Bahian food isn't really that spicy, but it's got its own flavors that are just a fun to discern when eating. I was a little disappointed that I couldn't get a kick from the foods (like most Asian cooking) but it was fun to try everything from the acaraje to the mocqueca to the bobo de camarao.

Acaraje

Cuscuz

Cocada

A (very small) breakdown of Carnaval (in Rio).

Prior to this past week, I really didn't have an idea of what Carnaval was like in Rio-- I imagined the city to be swarming to people, drunk and partying, kissing every third person they saw. I imagined messy streets, horrid smells, and basically-- to tell you the truth-- an amplified version of MTV Spring Break.

While I wasn't exactly wrong-- the city does start to smell and there are a lot of drunkards roaming at night-- Carnaval is more than that in Rio. Imagine that the whole city turns into a music festival, and you can go to different streets (or blocks) to listen to whatever music you want. Add costumes, have some of the concerts in a parade-like style, and extend the music festival from 7 AM to 11 PM (and the party goes later in Lapa) and you've got Carnaval in Rio.

It's hard to explain just how amazing it is. I'm fortunate enough to say that I got to experience a little bit of everything-- the crazy blocos in Ipanema (where it's a majority of tourists and Brasilian men trying to hook up with girls), the blocos in Santa Teresa Centro (alive with costumes, families, and good music), and the small street parties that are unknown to everyone except those in the know. Each street party is different, and I enjoyed each one thoroughly. It's hard to pick a favorite-- Saturday morning I went up to Santa Teresa to "Ceu na Terra" where the bateria plays in the bondinho. Then I headed to Bola Preta (which ended up being a mess because of the rain)-- the most classic street bloco in Rio. Then I headed to Ipanema at night, to Banda Ipanema, which ended up being mostly tourists (as far as I could tell). Sunday I went to Centro and watched my friend's play in the bateria at Boitata, then hung around Praca Quinze until the afternoon. Had some lunch then headed to Ipanema again. Monday I went with my roommate to a small show in Urca, where just about 50-60 Brazilians danced and listen to good Afro-Brasilian music. Later I headed to a bloco in Botafogo, where it was all Beatles music (the crowd there was amazing-- everyone was singing and dancing).

En fim, let's just say that I'm addicted. I get why Carnaval could be the greatest party ever. And while I headed to Salvador for the last day (more on that in a different post), Carnaval in Rio is just as exciting and if not richer in culture and music than that in Salvador (contrary to what the guide books say, I know).

It's been a while since I've updated.

But it's been Carnaval and the city (well, country) has been alive and partying. I'll try to catch up with some posts this week.

Fulbright Orientation, Reflections.

For the past few days (Saturday-Tuesday), I was in São Paulo attending the Fulbright Orientation for the incoming research grantees. It was a bit strange, seeing all of them so bright-eyed and anxious to start their research, since I have been here on my own for almost five months (I hit that mark tomorrow). In some ways, the orientation was even a little disorienting for me-- hearing everyone getting excited about the different things they want to get involved in, the number of connections they have... it made me realize how I (in some ways) really stepped foot into this country without any friends.

Ethics Clearance: The final stages.

So, after nearly five months of writing, waiting, writing, waiting, calling, running around getting signatures, waiting, writing, waiting, and waiting some more...

I received final research clearance from the CEP. Just as I am starting my field work. The timing worked out kind of perfectly, and while I'm not surprised it's taken until a little over halfway through my grant to receive clearance, I'm glad it's basically over. I just have to submit the final papers to the IRB in the US, and I am clear in both countries. Yippeeeee.

Congresso.

Yesterday I was accepted to present my work (as an oral presentation, in Portuguese!) at V Congresso Brasileiro de Ciências Sociais e Humanas em Saúde. This past week (though I haven't been writing) has been really booked with advancements on my research. I will be presenting my work in São Paulo, some time between April 17-April 20. It should be exciting, and I am glad to have an excuse to go back to São Paulo--- I was just there this past weekend for the Fulbright Orientation (more on that soon) and I really did enjoy the city.