Prior to this past week, I really didn't have an idea of what Carnaval was like in Rio-- I imagined the city to be swarming to people, drunk and partying, kissing every third person they saw. I imagined messy streets, horrid smells, and basically-- to tell you the truth-- an amplified version of MTV Spring Break.
While I wasn't exactly wrong-- the city does start to smell and there are a lot of drunkards roaming at night-- Carnaval is more than that in Rio. Imagine that the whole city turns into a music festival, and you can go to different streets (or blocks) to listen to whatever music you want. Add costumes, have some of the concerts in a parade-like style, and extend the music festival from 7 AM to 11 PM (and the party goes later in Lapa) and you've got Carnaval in Rio.
It's hard to explain just how amazing it is. I'm fortunate enough to say that I got to experience a little bit of everything-- the crazy blocos in Ipanema (where it's a majority of tourists and Brasilian men trying to hook up with girls), the blocos in Santa Teresa Centro (alive with costumes, families, and good music), and the small street parties that are unknown to everyone except those in the know. Each street party is different, and I enjoyed each one thoroughly. It's hard to pick a favorite-- Saturday morning I went up to Santa Teresa to "Ceu na Terra" where the bateria plays in the bondinho. Then I headed to Bola Preta (which ended up being a mess because of the rain)-- the most classic street bloco in Rio. Then I headed to Ipanema at night, to Banda Ipanema, which ended up being mostly tourists (as far as I could tell). Sunday I went to Centro and watched my friend's play in the bateria at Boitata, then hung around Praca Quinze until the afternoon. Had some lunch then headed to Ipanema again. Monday I went with my roommate to a small show in Urca, where just about 50-60 Brazilians danced and listen to good Afro-Brasilian music. Later I headed to a bloco in Botafogo, where it was all Beatles music (the crowd there was amazing-- everyone was singing and dancing).
En fim, let's just say that I'm addicted. I get why Carnaval could be the greatest party ever. And while I headed to Salvador for the last day (more on that in a different post), Carnaval in Rio is just as exciting and if not richer in culture and music than that in Salvador (contrary to what the guide books say, I know).
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