observations on the population.

while my parents were here, they mentioned a few times the great lack of children in rio. I found this a little interesting, because it was not really something i noticed-- until they pointed it out. what i do think is that there aren't that many kids in zona sul, a rich area that isn't really kid-friendly. when we went to barra da tijuca, in zona oeste, there were quite of few children running around on the beach.

we also noticed a lot of empregadas tending to young children-- while the mother was present. they tended to be a cute mix, because the empregada was usually darker, and the child was really fair.

hammocks.

I'm in love with the "redes" or hammocks that Brazilians keep in their homes-- they're such a whimsical addition to a household, but here they actually are quite useful. During the heat of the day, sleeping in a hammock can be one of the best things on earth. I know that the hammocks are also used on the riverboats in the Amazon-- a trip I'm hoping to make soon.

ice cream flavors

Flavors I just can't find outside of Brazil:

cachaca

tamarind

torta de limao

doce de leite

castanha de para

he put the lime in the coconut...

if you ever buy a coconut in rio, ask them to open it for you after you've finished drinking the milk. they cut it with a knife, then cut off a little part of the shell for you to use as a spoon. it's incredibly charming, very eco-friendly, and of course-- delicious.

the best view for nearly nothing.

If you are looking for killer views of Rio, I recommend taking the Metro Bus from Ipanema to Barra and back. The ride sweeps past Leblon and has got a breathtaking view of Zona Sul, Sao Conrado, and Barra. The best part? It costs just under 3 reais, and it's really the perfect view riding back around dusk. I've done it a few times, and the view never gets old.

You can catch the bus to Barra at General Osorio, right next to the Metro Station.

farmers markets.

While it can definitely be more convenient to shop at a grocery store, I've actually found the farmers markets to be the perfect place for me to stock up on fruits and vegetables. Since I don't cook meat at home, and most of what I eat is what my father calls "roughage" I've found the cheapest and freshest "frutas e verduras e legumes" are at the farmers markets. There are a few that happen every day, and I've noticed that the markets in Botafogo are drastically cheaper than those in Ipanema. A word of note: If you go to the ones in Ipanema and Copacabana, you can definitely bargain down the price, but I haven't had much luck trying to get cheaper fruits in Botafogo. Also, if you go closer to the end, the prices drop even more. For someone like me, who isn't too picky with the looks of the fruits, I like to go later to score a better deal.

sweets.

List of sweets I've found in Brazil:

(updating constantly, if I can).

pudim

brigadeiro

pastel de belem

rabanada

malls.

The mall culture here is pretty incredible. In Rio, in Brazil, for that matter, they're called "shoppings" which makes no sense whatsoever, but that doesn't mean they don't understand what a mall actually is. They have practically one in every neighborhood in Zona Sul, and quite a few outside of Zona Sul. I have yet to make it to the chic-chic ones in Sao Conrado or Barra, but I'll get there eventually, I'm sure. The biggest and oldest one seems to be Rio Sul, in Botafogo, but there's also Botafogo Praia Shopping, Shopping Leblon, Shopping Gavea, Rio Design.... the list goes on. The malls seem to be a place where people hang out, eat, drink, (maybe) buy a few things, but it's more of a meeting point-- an alternative to the beach when it's raining outside.

arab food.

While my lack of appreciation for the abundance of meat in Brasil has been pretty obvious, I'm been meaning to tell you my utter joy over the amount of Lebanese-slash-Syrian-inspired food that can be found in this country.

Esfihas and kibes (the most common Arab snacks that can be found in Rio) were brought to Brazil by the Middle-Eastern immigrants, most of whom settled in Sao Paulo. The esfiha is a piece of flatbread covering some sort of seasoned ground meat or vegetable, while the kibe is bulgur wheat covering a same meat or vegetable, and then deep fried. The results are delicious, and the prices are amazing. For a city that has been just too expensive for me to comprehend, I find that most of these dishes rarely cost above 4 reais, and they are health and filling.

I've found a couple places in each of the neighborhoods that I've lived in that are worth visiting if you are in the mood for these snacks.

Botafogo: Seu Nacib

This one is in Rio Sul mall, on the second floor. The best part about this place, besides the convenience of where it's located, is that there's a hot sauce (ask for pimenta forte) that they make in-house. It's HOT, and it's got a kick that I haven't been able to find in any other place in Rio.

Ipanema: Restaurante Faraj

It's located at the very beginning of Visconde de Piraja, almost where Rua Francisco Sa ends. You can't miss it; there's always a huge group of people waiting for the fresh snacks to come out of the oven, and the owners do an amazing job adding lots of spices.

feliz natal.

it's excruciatingly hot here, but the christmas spirit truly is alive... just instead of snow flecked windows and people huddled by fires, everyone's at the beach.

curiosity #5.

For some reason, buses here have these incredibly small rotating entrances that are only passable AFTER you have paid the 2-something reais fee...

They're particularly absurd when you are carrying a bag of groceries, or really any bag for that matter, and actually kind of difficult to get through.

lots of photos of me, for once.

acaraje.

Every Sunday, at the Hippie Fair in Ipanema (in General Osorio), there are a few stalls at every corner of the square selling all sorts of traditional foods from the Northeast of Brazil. I haven't tried all of them yet, but my favorite is acaraje, a bean patty fried in dende oil, topped with a mixture of okra and veggies and a spicy pepper sauce. You can also get it topped with camarao (shrimp) but I usually opt against it. It's the only time in Rio that I can find spice, and I've been trying to get down to Ipanema every Sunday to get my fix. My favorite stall is the one closest to the ZigZag bar on the corner of Prudente de Morais-- for BRL 7, you can get an acaraje, and then find a place at one of the metal tables that look like they might fall apart if you lean on them too hard. Too often there's no place to sit, so you need to stand, and form a makeshift table with your thigh or other body part, careful not to spill the steaming hot food all over you. I always recommend getting a cool beverage, because the food is spicy and the heat (from the food and the temperature outside) is enough to make you faint.

got a motorcycle burn today.

my plans for surfing and going to the beach this week have been spoiled. boo.

I really feel like I'm living in Rio...

because I am starting to run into people that I recognize, no matter what neighborhood I'm in. Other Fulbrighters, Cariocas, locals that I've never formally met but can recognize their face... it's a really special feeling, to be able to feel like part of the grander community of the city. No matter where I lived-- California or NY-- being able to make my world just a little bit smaller, was, well, nice. Rio is massive, and there is so much anonymity, but at the same time the possibility of running into someone on the street.... well, it's there. And it's a wonderful thing.

there's currently bossa nova and samba playing outside in my neighborhood, and I can hear it from my window. I'm falling in love with Rio....

curiosity #4.

Something that I find really lovely here is that when you are on a bus, there is a certain sense of camaraderie and civility among the passengers. I've never utilized buses so much in my entire life, so I'm not sure if this is common in other countries, but on particularly crowded buses in Rio, people who are sitting hold the "standing person's" belongings on their lap. (Cariocas NEVER put their bags on the floor-- ever. I think it's because the floors are dirtier here than in the US, but it's interesting how Americans don't think twice about putting a purse or backpack on the ground.) It's a nice gesture, because as someone who often doesn't find a seat on the bus, trying to stay upright, not bump into people, and keep yourself steady takes 90% of your strength and attention, so it's frustrating to be bothered by your backpack which won't stay on, keeps getting shoved into your back by other people who are standing around you, or whatever.

Of course, there are times when no one offers to hold my things, but usually they do. And I appreciate it.

curiosity #3.

You know when you are online shopping, and if you need help, a little pop-up window comes and you can immediately get your questions answered?

Not in Rio.

This is from a chat window where I was trying to find information about a new public transportation card that allows you to make only one payment for two rides, within two hours:

Bem vindo ao nosso chat seguro. Por favor, aguarde a resposta de um atendente. Você é o número 13 na fila. Seu tempo de espera será de aproximadamente 37 minuto(s) e 2 segundos. Obrigado por aguardar.

37 minutes! I never even thought that there would be a line for online help...

today i saw...

a bus driver smoking. It's incredibly strange to still have smoking be OK in public areas....

it's raining crazily...

out here. I think that means summer has begun. Extremely hot during the day, showers at night.

On another note, today I ran around Urca, and got a feel for the neighborhood. It's incredibly Brazilian, hard to find an expat living here. But the place was really nice, almost idyllic in a way.

another observation.

One thing I’ve noticed here about people is that they really want to help you, even if they don’t know the answer. In one way, it’s incredibly sweet to have someone want to genuinely help you; but in another way, it’s incredibly frustrating to get the wrong directions and end up in a place far, far away from where you have originally intended.

My solution? For directions, and as many things as possible, I try to ask at least two people the same question. If I get the same response, then fine—if I don’t, it means I need to get a better consensus.

buzios.

two months.

I guess this might become a monthly reflection, but it's been two months since I've been living in Rio, but I feel comfortable enough to say that it feels like it's been longer. I mean, I still don't know how to get to every location, and I don't know all the buses, and sometimes I feel like I'm still getting ripped off because I don't know where to look to find the cheap food or the cheap whatever, but I'm learning.

This month, I'm living in Urca. Last month, waking up every morning in Ipanema, it felt like a blessing to be able to walk around the streets at night... it's the same here, on Rua Lauro Muller. I've got an amazing view of the Pao de Acucar in my living room, and my apartment mate is a peaceful, wonderful person who will be a pleasure to live with for the next month.

The novelty of all the fresh fruits and vegetables has already worn on me, and I find myself trying to slowly figure out what it is that I find important to do here in Brazil. My research has not been progressing with the speed in which I hoped it would, and starting this month-- now that my Portuguese classes have ended-- I think it's important that I try to figure out other things to do with my time, like write articles, or find a way to volunteer somewhere.

We'll see.

i have internet again...

so expect a few back-logged posts to be up shortly...