observations on the population.

while my parents were here, they mentioned a few times the great lack of children in rio. I found this a little interesting, because it was not really something i noticed-- until they pointed it out. what i do think is that there aren't that many kids in zona sul, a rich area that isn't really kid-friendly. when we went to barra da tijuca, in zona oeste, there were quite of few children running around on the beach.

we also noticed a lot of empregadas tending to young children-- while the mother was present. they tended to be a cute mix, because the empregada was usually darker, and the child was really fair.

hammocks.

I'm in love with the "redes" or hammocks that Brazilians keep in their homes-- they're such a whimsical addition to a household, but here they actually are quite useful. During the heat of the day, sleeping in a hammock can be one of the best things on earth. I know that the hammocks are also used on the riverboats in the Amazon-- a trip I'm hoping to make soon.

ice cream flavors

Flavors I just can't find outside of Brazil:

cachaca

tamarind

torta de limao

doce de leite

castanha de para

he put the lime in the coconut...

if you ever buy a coconut in rio, ask them to open it for you after you've finished drinking the milk. they cut it with a knife, then cut off a little part of the shell for you to use as a spoon. it's incredibly charming, very eco-friendly, and of course-- delicious.

the best view for nearly nothing.

If you are looking for killer views of Rio, I recommend taking the Metro Bus from Ipanema to Barra and back. The ride sweeps past Leblon and has got a breathtaking view of Zona Sul, Sao Conrado, and Barra. The best part? It costs just under 3 reais, and it's really the perfect view riding back around dusk. I've done it a few times, and the view never gets old.

You can catch the bus to Barra at General Osorio, right next to the Metro Station.

farmers markets.

While it can definitely be more convenient to shop at a grocery store, I've actually found the farmers markets to be the perfect place for me to stock up on fruits and vegetables. Since I don't cook meat at home, and most of what I eat is what my father calls "roughage" I've found the cheapest and freshest "frutas e verduras e legumes" are at the farmers markets. There are a few that happen every day, and I've noticed that the markets in Botafogo are drastically cheaper than those in Ipanema. A word of note: If you go to the ones in Ipanema and Copacabana, you can definitely bargain down the price, but I haven't had much luck trying to get cheaper fruits in Botafogo. Also, if you go closer to the end, the prices drop even more. For someone like me, who isn't too picky with the looks of the fruits, I like to go later to score a better deal.

sweets.

List of sweets I've found in Brazil:

(updating constantly, if I can).

pudim

brigadeiro

pastel de belem

rabanada

malls.

The mall culture here is pretty incredible. In Rio, in Brazil, for that matter, they're called "shoppings" which makes no sense whatsoever, but that doesn't mean they don't understand what a mall actually is. They have practically one in every neighborhood in Zona Sul, and quite a few outside of Zona Sul. I have yet to make it to the chic-chic ones in Sao Conrado or Barra, but I'll get there eventually, I'm sure. The biggest and oldest one seems to be Rio Sul, in Botafogo, but there's also Botafogo Praia Shopping, Shopping Leblon, Shopping Gavea, Rio Design.... the list goes on. The malls seem to be a place where people hang out, eat, drink, (maybe) buy a few things, but it's more of a meeting point-- an alternative to the beach when it's raining outside.

arab food.

While my lack of appreciation for the abundance of meat in Brasil has been pretty obvious, I'm been meaning to tell you my utter joy over the amount of Lebanese-slash-Syrian-inspired food that can be found in this country.

Esfihas and kibes (the most common Arab snacks that can be found in Rio) were brought to Brazil by the Middle-Eastern immigrants, most of whom settled in Sao Paulo. The esfiha is a piece of flatbread covering some sort of seasoned ground meat or vegetable, while the kibe is bulgur wheat covering a same meat or vegetable, and then deep fried. The results are delicious, and the prices are amazing. For a city that has been just too expensive for me to comprehend, I find that most of these dishes rarely cost above 4 reais, and they are health and filling.

I've found a couple places in each of the neighborhoods that I've lived in that are worth visiting if you are in the mood for these snacks.

Botafogo: Seu Nacib

This one is in Rio Sul mall, on the second floor. The best part about this place, besides the convenience of where it's located, is that there's a hot sauce (ask for pimenta forte) that they make in-house. It's HOT, and it's got a kick that I haven't been able to find in any other place in Rio.

Ipanema: Restaurante Faraj

It's located at the very beginning of Visconde de Piraja, almost where Rua Francisco Sa ends. You can't miss it; there's always a huge group of people waiting for the fresh snacks to come out of the oven, and the owners do an amazing job adding lots of spices.

feliz natal.

it's excruciatingly hot here, but the christmas spirit truly is alive... just instead of snow flecked windows and people huddled by fires, everyone's at the beach.

curiosity #5.

For some reason, buses here have these incredibly small rotating entrances that are only passable AFTER you have paid the 2-something reais fee...

They're particularly absurd when you are carrying a bag of groceries, or really any bag for that matter, and actually kind of difficult to get through.

lots of photos of me, for once.

acaraje.

Every Sunday, at the Hippie Fair in Ipanema (in General Osorio), there are a few stalls at every corner of the square selling all sorts of traditional foods from the Northeast of Brazil. I haven't tried all of them yet, but my favorite is acaraje, a bean patty fried in dende oil, topped with a mixture of okra and veggies and a spicy pepper sauce. You can also get it topped with camarao (shrimp) but I usually opt against it. It's the only time in Rio that I can find spice, and I've been trying to get down to Ipanema every Sunday to get my fix. My favorite stall is the one closest to the ZigZag bar on the corner of Prudente de Morais-- for BRL 7, you can get an acaraje, and then find a place at one of the metal tables that look like they might fall apart if you lean on them too hard. Too often there's no place to sit, so you need to stand, and form a makeshift table with your thigh or other body part, careful not to spill the steaming hot food all over you. I always recommend getting a cool beverage, because the food is spicy and the heat (from the food and the temperature outside) is enough to make you faint.

got a motorcycle burn today.

my plans for surfing and going to the beach this week have been spoiled. boo.

I really feel like I'm living in Rio...

because I am starting to run into people that I recognize, no matter what neighborhood I'm in. Other Fulbrighters, Cariocas, locals that I've never formally met but can recognize their face... it's a really special feeling, to be able to feel like part of the grander community of the city. No matter where I lived-- California or NY-- being able to make my world just a little bit smaller, was, well, nice. Rio is massive, and there is so much anonymity, but at the same time the possibility of running into someone on the street.... well, it's there. And it's a wonderful thing.

there's currently bossa nova and samba playing outside in my neighborhood, and I can hear it from my window. I'm falling in love with Rio....

curiosity #4.

Something that I find really lovely here is that when you are on a bus, there is a certain sense of camaraderie and civility among the passengers. I've never utilized buses so much in my entire life, so I'm not sure if this is common in other countries, but on particularly crowded buses in Rio, people who are sitting hold the "standing person's" belongings on their lap. (Cariocas NEVER put their bags on the floor-- ever. I think it's because the floors are dirtier here than in the US, but it's interesting how Americans don't think twice about putting a purse or backpack on the ground.) It's a nice gesture, because as someone who often doesn't find a seat on the bus, trying to stay upright, not bump into people, and keep yourself steady takes 90% of your strength and attention, so it's frustrating to be bothered by your backpack which won't stay on, keeps getting shoved into your back by other people who are standing around you, or whatever.

Of course, there are times when no one offers to hold my things, but usually they do. And I appreciate it.

curiosity #3.

You know when you are online shopping, and if you need help, a little pop-up window comes and you can immediately get your questions answered?

Not in Rio.

This is from a chat window where I was trying to find information about a new public transportation card that allows you to make only one payment for two rides, within two hours:

Bem vindo ao nosso chat seguro. Por favor, aguarde a resposta de um atendente. Você é o número 13 na fila. Seu tempo de espera será de aproximadamente 37 minuto(s) e 2 segundos. Obrigado por aguardar.

37 minutes! I never even thought that there would be a line for online help...

today i saw...

a bus driver smoking. It's incredibly strange to still have smoking be OK in public areas....

it's raining crazily...

out here. I think that means summer has begun. Extremely hot during the day, showers at night.

On another note, today I ran around Urca, and got a feel for the neighborhood. It's incredibly Brazilian, hard to find an expat living here. But the place was really nice, almost idyllic in a way.

another observation.

One thing I’ve noticed here about people is that they really want to help you, even if they don’t know the answer. In one way, it’s incredibly sweet to have someone want to genuinely help you; but in another way, it’s incredibly frustrating to get the wrong directions and end up in a place far, far away from where you have originally intended.

My solution? For directions, and as many things as possible, I try to ask at least two people the same question. If I get the same response, then fine—if I don’t, it means I need to get a better consensus.

buzios.

two months.

I guess this might become a monthly reflection, but it's been two months since I've been living in Rio, but I feel comfortable enough to say that it feels like it's been longer. I mean, I still don't know how to get to every location, and I don't know all the buses, and sometimes I feel like I'm still getting ripped off because I don't know where to look to find the cheap food or the cheap whatever, but I'm learning.

This month, I'm living in Urca. Last month, waking up every morning in Ipanema, it felt like a blessing to be able to walk around the streets at night... it's the same here, on Rua Lauro Muller. I've got an amazing view of the Pao de Acucar in my living room, and my apartment mate is a peaceful, wonderful person who will be a pleasure to live with for the next month.

The novelty of all the fresh fruits and vegetables has already worn on me, and I find myself trying to slowly figure out what it is that I find important to do here in Brazil. My research has not been progressing with the speed in which I hoped it would, and starting this month-- now that my Portuguese classes have ended-- I think it's important that I try to figure out other things to do with my time, like write articles, or find a way to volunteer somewhere.

We'll see.

i have internet again...

so expect a few back-logged posts to be up shortly...

11.25.10

I finally got a sense of the danger of Rio today. For the past few days, the drug gangs have infiltrated the city. It’s a reaction to the government’s attempt to clean up Rio de Janeiro—and more specifically, the favelas—for the World Cup. Typically, the gangs have been taking over public buses, asking the passengers to get out, then burning the buses down. I haven’t seen any of this, but it’s been on the news and all over the TV.

It seems like things are becoming particularly serious because the police have now infiltrated one of the favelas, which is atypical. In addition, several people have been killed in Zona Sul, the area where I live—and the area that houses the higher class residents of Rio (Ipanema, Copacabana, Leblon).

Of course all of this didn’t quite hit home until today I was suggested to leave Fiocruz—where I work—earlier than usual. You could hear the gun shots in Manguinhos, and one of my coworkers told me he that yesterday he had to wait for the gunshots to stop before he took a bus home. In fact, most of my coworkers told me not to come in tomorrow. It’s a little scary, not really having access to a TV or Internet, and knowing that there is something dangerous going on around you. People have been crowding the main street in Ipanema watching the TVs in the restaurants of every update of the situation. A fellow American friend told me that people were leaving work early and rushing to the metro (the safest form of transportation in this city) and everyone’s plans to go out have been cancelled.

I’m not sure if the violence will ever reach Ipanema, and for the most part these gangs are not interested in killing civilians, but people have been caught in the crossfire.

For those of you who travel abroad, it’s a wise idea to sign up with the US Embassy. They periodically send out information relating to events like this; those who signed up for people residing in Rio got a warning message yesterday.

thoughts on language.

All of a sudden, last weekend, my Portuguese finally clicked. My grammar is still terrible, and I can’t speak with a large vocabulary, but I can TALK. And understand. And I feel more comfortable riding the buses and the vans, knowing I can ask the driver to stop where I need him to. I feel more comfortable at the farmer’s markets, too. Everywhere really. It’s an incredible feeling, to know that you can communicate in some way, quite efficiently. There is a bit of security there in knowing that you can speak and be spoken to.

my research process.

One thing that’s striking me about my research project in Rio is how slowly it has been taking off. I came to the city completely prepared, with all my research clearance in the US finished, and a good idea of how to approach my study. But interestingly, my project has yet to even go through the most basic of clearances here.

It’s partly the research process, I think, because I am fortunate enough to have collaborators at Fiocruz who are willing to work with me and find the best ways for conducting my research. It’s something I truly appreciate, because it allows me to understand their way of thinking, and better understand the way the process works in Brazil.

All that being said, it’s a funny feeling, not having to go and do field work, or really any sort of work. Right now my primary goal is to pick up the language as quickly as possible, but that seems to be happening even passively, as I meet with people and move in groups where people speak the language. It’s hard to not pick up phrases an words when every day you are immersed. (That being said, you can also very easily not learn the language if you refuse to try. Many people do speak English and you can get by without knowing a lot of Portuguese.).

Observation.

Girls here DRESS UP for concerts. Really dress up. It’s all the same: short tight skirts or flouncy short skirts. Heels. Tight tops. Everything and anything to emphasize their, erm, backside assets.

What’s funny is that 90% of them couldn’t even last through the first hour of the show with their heels…. but who could blame them? The main act didn’t even start till 3 in the morning.

David Guetta

On Friday, a few friends and I went to see David Guetta, live at RioCentro. 50,000 people, all packed into one space (where drinking and smoking are permitted indoors—my clothes reeked of stale cigarettes this morning). For those of us who live in a hole (ie, me), David Guetta is an incredibly famous DJ who has produced a lot of music with artists that nearly every American has heard of: Black Eyed Peas, Akon, Rhianna…. the list goes on.

It was funny to be in a space where the music was all in English, but the Brazilians were wild for it. Akon and Vin Diesel made special appearances (Akon actually released his latest single that night on the stage) and the special effects made me feel, literally, like I was in some alter-reality.

It was a change of pace from some of the places I’ve frequented in Lapa, where it’s all Brazilian music, the crowd is much more low key, and the people are fewer.

But maybe my favorite part was the ride home on the bus, at 6 in the morning, everyone tired, strung out, but still feeling the energy from the concert. The route the bus took was right along the coast, so you could see the amazing views of Rio as the sun rose in the morning. Pretty epic.

Sao Cristavao Fair.

On Thursday, my Portuguese class (all three of us students) and our teacher, Laura, went to the Sao Cristavao Fair in Centro. The fair features a variety of stores, foods, and other events that are typical of the Northeast of Brazil (think Bahia). While most of the shops were closed, our group was able to drink and dine at one of the many restaurants located inside the center. After being pulled in many different directions by the silver-tongued hosts that stand outside each of the restaurants (it’s incredible how they try to lure you in), we found one that seemed to be worthy of Laura’s standards. We had some Guarana Jesus (the “Coca Cola” of Bahia—it tastes like bubblegum, and not in a good way. I recommend Guaranaviton, or some other natural Guarana drink), and lots and lots of different meats, farofa, rice, and beans. We ended our meal having some tapioca—a type of pancake made with tapioca, which is topped with different combinations of doces (sweets) or queijo (cheese). We tried one with queijo and doce de leite, and another called romeo and julieta (it’s a famous combination of guava and cheese in Brazil; it sounds a little strange, but it’s actually really really good).

Side note—while I haven’t exactly been enjoying the abundance of meat in Rio, the sweets are pretty amazing. They have one that is called pudim de leite; it’s like flan but it’s made with eggs, condensed milk, and carmalized sugar. And the ice cream—so many fun flavors like fig, guava, torta limao, and other exotic fruits that can only be found in Brazil.

Living Primitively.

My lovelies, I don't have Internet at home, so forgive me for the lack of posts that are about to ensue....

fashion in rio.

I haven’t been terribly impressed with the fashion in Rio; I expected to find a lot more interesting textiles and silhouettes, but I really haven’t found much. Most of the stores have replicas of a lot of trends that are in the US, and the few Brazilian brands that I’ve found to like are very, very pricey. That’s one thing about Rio—EVERYTHING is expensive.

I stumbled into a store called Vila Flores the other day, and I fell in love with a designer named Cecilia Prado. Her clothes, which are colorful but have delicate patterns like sheer laces with tropical prints, have a certain refined-ness to them that a lot of other brands lack. She hails from the state of Minas Gerais, and since finding her clothes in that store, I’ve found them in a few other boutiques in the city. I’ve got to keep my eye out for her stuff elsewhere; her stuff might be worth the splurge.

Street food in Rio.

If you’re a fan of red meat, then Brazil has got to be one of the greatest places on Earth for you. At almost every restaurant, the meat is of good quality, fresh, and cheap. But since I’m not big on carne, I’ve taken to liking other things (like the sweets! Omgoodness the sweets!) to more than make up for my lack of enthusiasm for feijoada.

In most cities, there is always a special type of food that’s reserved just for vendors on the streets.

You can find most of these foods anywhere, but the vendors usually come out around the late afternoon, when people are coming home from work and are craving a snack or sweet before dinner.

Here are a few I’ve found so far…

Pipoca: Popcorn! It’s sold here as salgado or doce (salty or sweet) or in some situations, you can ask for it “misto” (mixed). There’s usually a little bottle of lete condensada (condensed milk) lying around, and you can ask for some on top of the pipoca.

Tapioca: This one is a little hard to explain, because the tapioca is really only found in Brazil. The vendors make a sort of white pancake out of the tapioca flour, and you can have different toppings put on it—cheese, doce de goiaba, doce de lete, lete condensada, chocolate… I’ve found that lete condensada and queijo (cheese) makes the best mix of sweet and salt, but you may disagree

Hot Dogs (Cachorro de Quente): I have yet to try these, mainly because I never really crave hot dogs, but a lot of the carts are self service, and you can have a variety of toppings put on them. Cariocas really like their hot dogs; I’ve found them in so many lanchonetes as well.

Churros: I wish I had never tried these, because they can very easily become a very dangerous habit. Unlike churros anywhere else around the world, they STUFF their churros here with all sorts of goodness: chocolate, doce de lete, doce de banana, doce de goiaba. It’s really, really good, but very sweet—be forewarned, one of these can really make you feel full for a while.

(updated with photos 1.2.11)

one month.

So, it’s been exactly one month since I’ve left the United States. In some ways, I feel like everything is very similar; daily errands don’t really change much from country to country. I still have to time manage, figure out my schedule for the week. I hang out with friends on the weekends, go out, work out. But in some many other ways, everything has changed. I’m dealing with learning a new language. I’m constantly hyper-alert, not just for my own safety, but to be aware of the culture and people around me. Everything takes so much more time here. I factor in at least an hour to get to work. The ride home has taken up to three. It’s tiring, dealing with the traffic, not understanding what people are saying around me, not being able to just call friends at my own convenience. But in other ways, it’s highly gratifying to be able to figure things out on my own. Finding a beauty salon that provides eyebrow threading. Learning how to get around on the buses. Finding a yoga class, a rock climbing class, a surfing class. Making friends. Going to another country really teaches you patience.

Interestingly, the weather hasn’t been nearly as wonderful as I had hoped. I hope that when the sun does come out—and stays out—I’ll be able to really experience Rio in its fullest form. I’m enjoying living in Ipanema; walking down the streets, having everything I need within arm’s length… it’s nice. The beach is just two blocks away, and Lagoa is another couple in the opposite direction. And while at times the area can feel a little “Gringa” (you hear English here more than in any other area), it’s one of the few neighborhoods where the main street feels comfortable enough for me to walk around at all hours. Plus, being just a stone’s throw away from the farmer’s markets, the hippie fair, and about five fantastic ice cream stores is dangerously addictive.

In Urca, at a conference on health information.

Election Day and Pedra Bonita.

Yesterday was election day in Brazil, which was actually the second round of elections (the first round weeds out the candidates to the top 2, and the second round is just between the top 2 candidates). Dilma won, which was to be expected, but I was more curious to see how exactly the electoral process works in Brazil. Apparently, wherever you register to vote, you must go to that exact location-- and transferring locations of registration is a big pain (sounds similar to the US....).

After checking out a voting center in Urca, where residents pick their future leader with the view of the Sugar Loaf outside the windows, I met up with some new friends to go to Pedra Bonita, part of a massive trail of mountains that extend from Pedro Gavea into Jardim Botanico. The trail was pretty simple to the top of the mountain; maybe a half hour, at most. And while it was foggy, the view of Rio was pretty spectacular. Lush trees, lagoons, a perfect glimpse of the Christ, and a clear depiction of why the city is so special. Pictures don't do the view justice; your best bet is to climb up to the top and see for yourself.

ipanema...

for a month. Settling into a new atmosphere, a different vibe, a different beach. For better or worse, I'm not sure yet. But the weather sure is nice on this side of Arpoador.

ipanema...

for a month. Settling into a new atmosphere, a different vibe, a different beach. For better or worse, I'm not sure yet. But the weather sure is nice on this side of Arpoador.

Cell Phone Etiquette.

I noticed this at both my conference in Itapaiva, and again yesterday at a seminar on health information...

People in Brazil answer their cell phones DURING other people's presentations! It's bizarre. Abruptly, they'll pick up their phone and start having long, intimate conversations with whoever is on the other end-- sometimes it's about groceries, sometimes about work... but regardless, I'm not sure, but I guess it's not considered rude here to use your phone like this.

Apt. Hunting.

This past week has been a scramble trying to figure out places to live starting from December 1. I've looked high and low for places, trying to find the right location, price, etc. but in Rio-- it's hard. After a month in Copacabana, I will be moving to Ipanema through the generosity of a now-friend, but before a distant connection. The apartment is beautiful; peaceful, with lots of light, and all to myself. It will be bliss. The only problem-- no Internet.

After November, I've been trying to look for places all over, from Flamengo to Botafogo to Humaita to Leblon.... it's been tough, especially with summer right around the corner.

I'm crossing my fingers that I make some decisions by the end of the week.

Getting a CPF.

After just a few days of dealing with some paperwork and bureaucracy, I am finally a number in the Brazilian system! This is great!

A CPF (Cadastro de Pessoas Fisicas) is like the ultimate social security number/identification number. It's used to get-slash-do almost anything and everything-- buy tickets online for concerts, a fan at a store, register with the bank, buy a house.... the list goes on. In some states and cities, like Salvador, a different number is used that encompasses other mandatory identification numbers that are given out by the Federal government, but in Rio-- a CPF is usually the quickest and easiest way to get something when documentation is necessary.

My route to getting a CPF was a little too easy. I just went to the bank with my passport (Banco do Brasil in Copa), and the lovely man at the counter asked me a few questions about my address, date of birth, phone number, and why I was in Brazil (the last one was for his curiosity, I think). After that, I took a number, waited in line, and then paid my 5-something reais bill to obtain a receipt of payment/protocolo to take with me to the nearest Federal Police, in Ipanema.

A few days later, and after one failed attempt of trying to get my CPF a little too quickly (they need at least 24 hours to process your application), I picked up my number this morning.

No paperwork, nada.

But for those of you who may want to bring back up information, I made sure to have copies of my passport, my parent's passports, birth certificate, and information on my stay as well as my address. None were required.

President Lula at Fiocruz.

Today Lula was at Fiocruz, not exactly sure why. But interesting to note: the security guards and police officers that patrol the campus all had little white gloves on-- apparently it's part of their "formal" wear, which is only reserved for the highest of officials. Case in point-- the President of Brazil.

feeling better...

But getting over any sort of bacterial infection takes time. Today was a good day; I was able to understand 80% of what was being spoken to me. I couldn't really completely respond, but I think my hears are finally adjusting to the thick accents of the Cariocas. And those classes; they're helping.

Snapshots.

getting sick.

There's nothing, and I repeat, nothing, like getting sick in another country that makes you crave your home. No amount of pseudo-maternal care, warm soup or some comfort food thereof, or blankets can help. Seriously. After a not so pleasant greeting of food poisoning after an evening of dining with a new friend in Brazil, I spent the majority of my weekend near the bathroom, curled up in a ball on my bed.

Not fun.

Surfing, and other thoughts.

Yesterday was my first surfing lesson. Not easy, but I know definitely have a taste for why so many people do it. I think I might get addicted, pretty quickly....

Grocery Stores in Rio.

Zona Sul: by far the most expensive, but also has too many locations and too convenient hours. It's the only grocery store you'll find in Ipanema.

Horti Fruti: Of all the grocery stores, I like this one the best because of its wide selection of fruits and vegetables. It also always has a section with fruit juices, and a scale for weighing yourself. I know, strange, but convenient.

Pao de Acucar: Seems similar to Zona Sul, but at times more pricey. The store has a better layout though.

Mundial: By far the cheapest, although the one in Copacabana is a nightmare to go through. I suggest that you get to the one in Botafogo, and buy all of your dry goods here-- I don't know if I would attempt the fresh foods and perishables. Although milk is pretty cheap here.

My routine is to buy fruits and veggies from the farmers markets, and then supplement with things from the grocery store. Casa de Pedro-- there are MANY locations in Copacabana-- has cheap arab bread, flour, rice, nuts... things that you need in bulk, I would go there. For good jam and such, try the organic farmers markets, or just go to Mundial.

Stay away from stores like Mundo Verde, which are too expensive and sell nothing special over the others.

Bread is quite expensive in Rio, so if you can make it that's great! For the rest of us, I actually find that buying a baguette (at Garcia and Rodrigues) or the Pao Frances is cheaper than buying a loaf. I also survive off the flatbreads.

Water is also incredibly expensive, so if you can buy a water bottle before you come to Rio, and find filtered places to fill up, it's probably your cheapest option.

Learning Portuguese.

It's been two weeks, I'm onto my third, and while I can now struggle through checkout lines at the grocery store, pay my bills at restaurants, and get around from place to place, having a lively, engaged conversation is still a struggle for me. To be honest, I've had it easy. My roommate speaks English, my advisors at Fiocruz speak Portuguese so slowly to me that I can decipher the Latin roots that make words similar to English, and I have yet to meet a friend who can't speak English. (Scratch that-- I made one friend who knows NO English.)

Regardless, if there's anything I've learned about traveling, it's that the key to understand a city, a culture, is usually through their language. So I've realigned my efforts to improve my Portuguese in as rapid a manner as possible. Starting from today, where I can help it, total immersion. I've enrolled in a language course at one of the public universities here, UFRJ, and enlisted the help of a private tutor. This coupled with speaking in Portuguese as much as possible whenever possible-- I'm hoping I can start having decent conversations by December.

For those of you interested in learning Portuguese in Rio, here are a couple options:

• UFRJ has Portuguese courses for Foreigners, which are offered as intensives several times thorughout the year. I was lucky to snag a spot in their last module, which starts on Thursday and ends in December.
• Here's another one at UFRJ that I'm not familiar with.
• PUC-Rio is supposedly the best place to take courses on Portuguese. Alas, I wasn't able to register or come in August, which is when one of their courses starts. Make sure to plan ahead for this one-- they ask you to apply well in advance.
• PUC-Rio also has courses for foreigners through their CCE department. I'm not too sure about these, but some of them are held in Barra, very far from Zona Sul.
• UERJ, the State University here, also has some courses on Portuguese.

a little sun, a little drink, a little this, a little that.

After a whirlwind of a week (figuring out a Portuguese language course, going to Itaipava for a resarch conference, another Saturday in Lapa, and finding time to figure out my research admist it all) Sunday was a well deserved break.

It's an understatement to say the city changes when the sun comes out. It would be more appropriate to say that it transforms-- the sun has some sort of magnificent effect that makes the people and the buildings sparkle; everyone is out and about-- running, skateboarding, biking, playing futebol-- it's a surreal experience that's a bit hard to put into words. But what really shows when the sun comes out is the true nature of Cariocas. Tests the next day? Forget it. Go to the beach. Got a huge project due? Don't worry, it'll figure itself out. The people here, and their ability to find time to appreciate life-- it's something that is rare to see in the US, especially somewhere like NYC, where the energy of the people is always on high and everyone is accelerating, trying to get somewhere, something, somehow.

The massive overgeneralization of the people of Rio (take for instance, my fellow research colleagues, who are all studying intensely for a huge entrance exam for Fiocruz next week-- I'll explain more later) is not to demean other places, people. It's just an observation. Being in the city also makes me realize how much on overdrive a person can get-- sometimes it is important to just sit, relax, and watch things unfold.

So Sunday for me was filled with a day at the beach across from the Fasano, a quick jaunt through Ipanema scouring a few boutiques, then off for a mini trip to Santa Teresa. It's a beautiful, bourgeious bohemian place with an amazing view of the city, and a neighborhood feel that's hard to find in Zona Sul. Drinks with friends at the corner bar, watching youngsters run on the streets... talking about politics, fashion, linguistics and life.